الموقع
ملتوّياً كالرّقطاء تحفُّ به أسوقُ الصنوبر والدّلب والعفص، والزيزفون، يمتدّ وادي لامارتين من مشارف قناطر زبيدة صعوداً حتى أعتاب شاغور حمّانا ، مارّاً بمزارع عِدَّة، منها ما هو قائم حتى اليوم، ومنها الدّارس بفعل عوادي الزمان من مثل: دار قنات، ودار صيّا، ودير خونة، ودير الرُّغم التابع لبطريركية السّريان الكاثوليك…
أمّا حكاية هذا الدير فتعود إلى العام 1650 حين وفد جماعة من المسيحيين العراقيين إلى لبنان هرباً من الاضطهاد، حيث إستوطنوا بادِءَ الأمر مدينة طرابلس، وهناك ألتقوا أشخاصاً من آل رعد من بلدة الشبانية الذين نصحوهم بالإنتقال إلى الشبانية، حيث قدّم لهم الوقف الماروني قطعة أرضٍ لتشييد ديرٍ عليها شرط تغيير هويتهم من روم إلى كاثوليك.. وهكذا كان .” سريان كاثوليك”.
وأنت تمرُّ في حنايا الوادي وثناياه وتعرّجاته،إذا بالدّهر يسترجع ضجيج مواكب خطرت ذات زمنٍ، فإذا الدروب بوح خُزامى، ونفح صعتر، ووزّال ونُعناع، وشدو بلابلَ، وتراتيل غدرانٍ، وهاكه النسيم أيضاً يحمل على أجنحته ترجيع صدىً لنوح ناياتٍ، وغُصَّةِ أوتارٍ، وبُحة نغمٍ شرودٍ …أمّا على الأديم فيستوقفك التياعٌ وآهاتٍ، وحطام قيثارةٍ خنقها الشجا، إذ إنّ الوادي كان مأهولاً حتى مطالع القرن الثامن عشر…
على هذا الوادي المترامي الأطراف تنتشر عدّة قرىً وضياع: الهلالية، شويت، العبادية، رويسة البلوط، بعلشمية، عين موفق، رأس الحرف، قتالة، القرّية، قبيع، الشبانية، حمّانا، بمريم، الحصيحص، القلعة، الخريبة، بتبيات، دير الحرف، بتخنية، ورأس المتن.. كما تُطلُ عليه من علٍ بلدات: بحمدون المحطة، صوفر، فالوغا وقرنايل..
القارىء العزيز إذا خطر لك أن تقرأ الوادي كلمةً كلمة، بل وحرفاً حرفاً، فإني أشيرُ عليك أن تُشرف عليه بعيني صقر، من هناكَ من فوق، من باب البقعة- المغيثة- من حيث يتدلّى الشلال بحبال بيضاءَ حاكها من حبيبات ثلج علٍ و نوله، ليفترشها النّهر تحته بساطاً متموجاً من الكوثرعلى طول قامته المديدة..
وادي لامارتين الثروة
الوادي غنيٌّ بالمياه، فهو الرافدُ الرئيس لنهر بيروت، فعلى امتداد الوادي هناك أكثر من نبعِ وبئر أرتوازي يُغذي العديد من المناطق بمياه الشفة، لعلَّ أبرز هذه الينابيع وأقدمها استخداماً، نبع الدّلبة الذي يُغذي أجزاء كبيرة من العاصمة بيروت…
وحديثاً تم حفر بئرين واحد في بلدة بمريم، وآخر في بلدة القلعة، حيث يغذيان عدة قرى متنيّة..
إضافةً إلى الثروة المائية، هناك الثروة الحرجية، فعلى امتداد الوادي تقوم غابات الصنوبر – ذهب الجبليين الأسود- إضافة إلى كروم الزيتون، التين، والعنب، والصبّار، وصنوفٍ أُخرى من الأشجار المثمرة..
كما تقوم على ضفاف الوادي الغنّاء بضعة مقاصف ومطاعم ومنتجعات سياحية يقصدها الرّواد من كل حدب وصوب..
وتجدر الإشارة إلى أنه كانت تقوم على هذا الوادي مجموعة من معامل الحرير والمطاحن التي كانت تعمل أحجار رحاها على الماء..
البيئة
تعيش في الوادي بعض الحيوانات البرّية، فإلى الذئب تجد الضبع والثعلب وابن آوى والقنفذ .. كما يعجُّ الوادي بصنوف الطير، فلثغة الشحرور المتناسقة مع خرير المياه تكاد تسمعها على امتداد الوادي، من أخمص قدميه حتى مفرق مشيبه، فوق عند مرمى الثلج.. إضافة إلى البلابل والدوري، وأجواق الحساسين المقيمة عندنا سعيدة، والتي يعكّر صفوها بعض هواة القنص.
من أين جاءت تسمية الوادي ؟!
ألفونس دي لامارتين 1790-1869
أثناء زيارة الفونس دي لامارتين النائب في البرلمان الفرنسي، وزعيم الحركة الرومنطقية، وأحد كبارالشعراء الفرنسيين لبنان العام 1833 نزلَ ضيفاً في دارة آل مزهر في حمّانا والواقعة على ضهر شقيفٍ صخري مُطلٍّ على الوادي حيث دامت إقامته واحداً وعشرين يوماً .. شُغف بسحر الوادي وجماليته، ومناظره التي تخلُبُ الأبصار، ما حفّزه على التغنّي بهذه التحفة الطبيعية التي خصَّ الله بها المتن الأعلى، ومما قاله في هذا الوادي:” إن أحد أجمل أعمال الله التي تقع عليه عين الأنسان هو – وادي حمّانا- “.
قرظ لامارتين الوادي بضعة قصائد ضمّنها ديوانيه ” التأملات”و “جوسلين” إضافة إلى مقطوعاتٍ نثرية في مؤلّفه ” رحلة إلى الشرق”.
وتجدر الإشارة إلى أنَّ لامارتين إنتقل من حمّانا إلى دير القمر حيث مكث فيها واحداً وعشرين يوماً أيضاً، دوّن فيها مشاهداته عن لبنان ضمّنها أيضاً كتابه ” رحلة إلى الشرق” الذي صدر العام 1838..
فُجع لآمارتين في أثناء إقامته في لبنان بوفاة أبنته البالغة من العمر ثماني سنوات فدُفنت في بيروت..
ولمناسبة مرور مئة عام على زيارة ” لامارتين” لبنان وإقامته في حمّانا .. أحيت السفارة الفرنسية العام 1933 إحتفالاً في دارة المقدّم كامل مزهر، وخصّت الدار بمنحوتةٍ لوجه الشاعر لامارتين كعربون تقدير وعرفانٍ بالجميل للدّار المضيفة..
ترغب الضحى بالإبقاء على النص الإنجليزي كما هو ليتمكن مسؤولو بلديات المتن الأعلى (ومن خلفهم المسؤولون في الوزارات المختلفة، وبخاصة وزارة السياحة) أن يتعرّفوا بدقة على أحدث السيناريوهات الممكنة للسياحة في وادي لامارتين والقرى المتنية المحيطة. يقترح تقرير خبير التنمية السياحية د. سموري أن يجري التركيز على أنماط السياحة البيئية الممكنة في وادي لامارتين والقرى المحيطة، ويتجنب الحديث على أنماط السياحة التقليدية mass tourism، التي صارت عبئاً على البيئة كما على المجتمعات المضيفة. الغاية من ذلك واضحة، وهي التطابق مع المعايير الدولية المعتمدة للتطوير السياحي اليوم، Quality tourism ، البيئية، التاريخية، الثقافية، الفولكلورية، وما شابه، أي بما لا يدمّر أو يؤذي البيئة بأنواعها المختلفة (الإيكولوجية والثقافية والاجتماعية وغيرها).
هذا هو العنوان للأفكار والمقترحات التفصيلية التي يسهم بها التقرير في خدمة التطوير السياحي المستقبلي لمنطقة وادي لامارتين في المتن الأعلى والقرى المحيطة.
LEBANON’S LAMARTINE VALLEY
Touristic Survey
By Dr. Jaque Sammouri
< Salima Village
architecture.
Ras el-Matn is located on the western steep slopes of Mount Lebanon in the upper section of Lamartine Valley.
This town is known for its panoramic views and pine trees, giving a splendid view across the valley to the towns of Dhour Chweir, Baabdat, Broumana and Beit Mery.
All roads leading to the town, whether from Monteverdi and Qortada or from Araya and Abadieh or via Baalishmeih, Chbeniyeh, Hamana and Deir el-Harf; traverse unspoiled landscape of pine-clad hills and rivers such as the Jaramani river along the Monteverdi road.
The most notable building inside the town is the historical Serail of the Abillama Princes built in 1775. Visitors can still appreciate the serail’s elegant courtyard and bell tower. (This building requires restoration to safeguard the heritage of this important town.)
The village is remarkable for its natural water spring with an impressive arched façade built in 1472 (Nabaa Ein el Marj).
Much older, are the ancient tombs carved into the rocky cliffs and headlands of Ras el-Matn, while just below the village the refuge of a holy woman, Sitt Sarah can be found in a rock-scattered field. According to the legend, a rock miraculously opened into a cave to shelter Sitt Sarah as she fled from danger. Finally carved from living stone, the site is an ancient tomb chamber.
Many grottos are located in the steep pine-clad slopes above the town, giving visitors and hikers superb views. The umbrella pines that surround the village are a source of pine nuts; while olives, grapes, figs, apricots and other fruits are cultivated here as well.
Deir el Harf is a small village above Ras el-Matn. The Greek Orthodox Monastery of St. George stands in a pine forest, built around an
Lamartine Valley is one of the most panoramic areas of Mount Lebanon; commanding a stunning view of the majestic green mountains of Lebanon, the clear blue sky and the azure Mediterranean Sea. It offers a wonderfully rich environment that is calling out to be explored.
Pine-covered, Higher Matn villages (Ras El Matn, Btikhnieh, Hammana, Shbanieh, Falouga, Qirnayel, Salima, Arsoun, Kobieh, Bzibdine, Bmariam, Baalshmaieh, and others) could be the center of tourist attraction of the area: typical Lebanese Villages nestled in the heart of Lamartine Valley, from 600 to 1200 meters above sea level. Higher Matn district is of the country’s most popular mountain resorts with orchards, red-tiled stone houses, old nostalgic souks and historic palaces. It is famous for its numerous water springs and imposing waterfall known as Shaghour Hammana in Mount Lebanon.
Mezher Palace, in Hammana, a striking Matn monument standing proudly on a cliff overlooking the valley once hosted Lamartine, his wife and daughter Julia during their expedition to the Orient in 1932. Enchanted by the magic of the place, Lamartine wrote (commemorative plaque): “One of the most beautiful views that men have ever beheld, an opportunity to paint the creation of God, is the Valley of Hammana. Painting or words can describe only one detail of the fairylike treasure with which the Creator endowed, going down in succession and filling the valley with their riches”.
Both, Ras El Matn and Salima, hold two big historic monuments: Remains of Lameiin Saray سرايا اللمعيين (governed Matn Region for two centureies).
Qirnayel, Falougha, Shbanieh, and others, have a lot of historic hotels which hosted for decades numerous Arab visitors in addition to special historic events.
THE PROMINENT TOURIST ATTRACTIONS OF THE MAIN villages SURROUNDING LAMARTINE VALLEY
Salima is reached via Baabdat on a road that winds down through an unspoiled valley then up to the opposite hillside.
The main attraction is Salima Palace, a Druze Fortress of the Abillama Dynasty built in 1721 by Emir Hussein, the first Abillama Prince. The main portal of this prominent building is enclosed in an ornate arabesque molding with two lions flanking the central arch. Above the portal is the old diwan which leads you to the
A tour around the town will reveal several old churches the oldest of which was built in 1684 as well as a number of ancient houses contemporary with the castle.
All these old structures still stand, but unfortunately, most of them are in an advanced state of ruin. Salima has in spite of all a feudal architecture.
Ras el-Matn is located on the western steep slopes of Mount Lebanon in the upper section of Lamartine Valley.
This town is known for its panoramic views and pine trees, giving a splendid view across the valley to the towns of Dhour Chweir, Baabdat, Broumana and Beit Mery.
All roads leading to the town, whether from Monteverdi and Qortada or from Araya and Abadieh or via Baalishmeih, Chbeniyeh, Hamana and Deir el-Harf; traverse unspoiled landscape of pine-clad hills and rivers such as the Jaramani river along the Monteverdi road.
The most notable building inside the town is the historical Serail of the Abillama Princes built in 1775. Visitors can still appreciate the serail’s elegant courtyard and bell tower. (This building requires restoration to safeguard the heritage of this important town.)
The village is remarkable for its natural water spring with an impressive arched façade built in 1472 (Nabaa Ein el Marj).
Much older, are the ancient tombs carved into the rocky cliffs and headlands of Ras el-Matn, while just below the village the refuge of a holy woman, Sitt Sarah can be found in a rock-scattered field. According to the legend, a rock miraculously opened into a cave to shelter Sitt Sarah as she fled from danger. Finally carved from living stone, the site is an ancient tomb chamber.
Many grottos are located in the steep pine-clad slopes above the town, giving visitors and hikers superb views. The umbrella pines that surround the village are a source of pine nuts; while olives, grapes, figs, apricots and other fruits are cultivated here as well.
Deir el Harf is a small village above Ras el-Matn. The Greek Orthodox Monastery of St. George stands in a pine forest, built around an open courtyard. It has a rust- colored stone church and communal buildings around. The monastery’s known history begins sometimes in 18th Century and the church itself dates to 1790. It possesses and iconostasis of wood as well as a collection of beautiful icons, mostly from the 19th Century. The frescos covering the walls and vaults were completed in 1972 by Romanian painters.
Visitors can spend a whole day in this monastery as a religious pilgrimage.
Chbaniye like most villages in Lamartine Valley area Chbaniye is covered by trees and orchards. It is located amidst a beautiful vast valley which dazzled the French Poet Lamartine.
Chbaniye extends from Damascus Road, at Mdeirej station on the east, to Delbeh Spring Valley on the west which bursts from the last plot in the village and irrigates the last suburbs of Beirut.
Chbaniye has a large pine forest and is a remarkable summer resort which attracts a noticeable number of visitors for vacation and relaxation.
Apart from Hammana which is the core tourist attraction of Lamartine Valley and a hub station in the area; many spoke destinations rotate around.
Organized
Sightseeing
Package Tours
A series of organized package tours could be arranged in the area as the core center of attraction. These package tours can extend from one to three-days, with a stay of one or two nights in conventional hotels, tourist resorts, family guesthouses or eco-lodges. Such tours could be themed as scenic drives, nostalgic trails or romantic tracks; visiting panoramic natural sites, historical monuments and different cultural attractions in the surroundings of Hammana, Ras El Matn, Qarneyel, Btekhnie and other Matn villages.
The different itineraries of these package tours could include visits to different villages located on both banks of the valley, namely Hammana heights, Falougha and Kornayel – Bzebdine Woodlands, Hasbaya, Salima and Baabdat – Mtein, Bois de Bologne and Mrouj – Mdeirej, Sofar, Bhamdoun and Chbaniyeh…
Tourists can enjoy as well pleasant drives along scenic routes passing through peaceful villages, farmlands and fruit orchards overlooking fascinating views of the pine-covered Lamartine Valley:
֍ Aabadiyeh > Roueissat el Ballout > Ras el Metn > up to Hammana
֍ Baaleshmay > Ras el Harf ascending to Falougha and Hammana.
֍ Ras El Matn > Qirnayel > Btekhnai > Hammana or Bzibdine > North Matn ditinct
Diverse Ecotourism Activities (Natural and Cultural) in the region
On both banks of the river that runs through one of the deepest valleys of Lebanon, it offers an ideal environment for outdoor activities built on ecotourism. Such non-polluting and low-impact activities include hiking, trail biking, canyon rappelling, abseiling over the waterfall, trekking through a cedar forest that is 100-years old or snowshoeing in winter. These activities will delight both experienced nature lovers and amateurs alike, enjoying the nature, the mountains, forests and woodlands.
During their visit to the district, tourists can appreciate as well some cultural attractions and historical monuments such as:
֍A walk through the old souk of Hammana, Ras El Matn, Qirnayel, for example, where small shops area located around a well-preserved traditional fountain or historic monuments, etc, which draw back to the old days of Lebanon, and sell various handicrafts, fresh produces and mouneh agro-food products.
֍The 300-years old Mezher Palace, old residence of the Druze governors of the higher Metn district.
֍Ras El Matn Lamii Saray
֍Hammana Artist House dedicated to the performance of visual arts.
֍Various old churches pertaining to different Christian rites.
֍The Religious sites.
֍The annual Cherry Festival which is a 50-years old tradition and one of the main attractions of Hammana famous for its wide variety of cherry orchards. It is held yearly in the month of June. During this festival, visitors coming from all surrounding villages in Lamartine Valley district can enjoy picking their own cherries and partake in different rural activities.
Different Types of Tourist Lodgings with multiple Activities
A wide range of tourist accommodation types and lodgings are offered in the region. Individuals, couples, groups and families can find their preferred levels of comfort according to length of stay, purpose of visit, budget and activities performed. The different categories of accommodation can be classified as follows:
֍Country Clubs with lots of outdoor adventures and leisure activities for groups and friends such as camping, picnicking, archery, climbing, rappelling and abseiling.
֍Village-Vacances where students and families enjoy hiking, biking, sightseeing, treasure hunts and neighborhood explorations.
֍Ranch Houses offering numerous adventures such as horseback riding, skeet/trap shooting, animal feeding, vegetable picking, campfires, knots and ropes.
֍Eco-tourist resorts and lodges providing educational activities relative to organic food and agriculture, traditional nutrition practices and activities related to ecology and natural conservation, as well as responsible camping and practical guidance.
֍Guesthouses owned by rural families where visitors can share the customs and traditions of rural communities, taste their local food recipes and partake in their agricultural and farming activities.
֍Eco-lodges built with local materials, often with clay or thatched roofs in a local style complying with its natural environment and respecting strict environmental regulations regarding energy supply, water usage and waste disposal.
֍Obviously, classical tourists can spend their overnights in two or three conventional hotels in Hammana offering regular tourist services.
Innovative Projects
Some new projects are worth to be considered as they contribute to the development of the area, promote the tourism sector and generate more income to the region.
֍An observatory platform with a telescope situated on a commanding cliff at the summit of Hammana village enabling visitors to contemplate the splendor of Lamartine Valley and discerning the gorgeous view of the canyon. A revolving café restaurant at the top with a parking area on the platform would further valorize this project.
֍A cable-ride (teleferique) over Al Shaghour Waterfall crossing the distance between two platforms in the mountain and overlooking the Cedar Forest and/or a funicular or cable railway ascending Al Shaghour Canyon, in which an ascending car counter balances a descending car.
֍Encouraging twinships between Matn Villages and European villages (Hammana twinship with Macon in France is a good example). Similar arrangement could be done at other Matn villages, a way to exhibit the rich cultural activities and tourist attraction held in Higher Matn distinct.
